Italian handbag and accessories maker Furla said revenues last year rose 24.5 percent thanks to strong demand in its biggest market Japan and sales at the group's airport locations.
The family-owned firm is soon expected to list on the Milan bourse. It has more than doubled turnover in the past five years with its accessibly-priced leather products tapping consumers' growing appetite for more affordable labels.
Global spending for more upper-end luxury brands is starting to recover after the industry was hit in the last two years by a general slowdown, due to lower consumption in China and security threats that hurt tourism, the sector's two largest drivers.
In May last year Furla took the first steps towards a long-awaited flotation by signing a 30-million-euro investment deal with merchant bank Tamburi Investment partners, which said it planned to list the firm this year.
Furla said on Thursday preliminary revenues in 2016 totaled 422 million euros. Net of currency effects, sales were up 22 percent. Like-for-like growth was 9 percent.
The group said it expected further growth this year in its 262 airport locations, where purchases by customers in transit were up 40 percent in 2016.
Full-year sales in Japan, the group's single largest market, representing almost a quarter of its global revenues, were up 31.7 percent. Sales in Italy were up 18 percent, slightly lower than the 23.5 rise in the rest of Europe.
Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) in 2016 rose 48 percent with respect to the previous year. The company did not however give a figure for core profits.
The Bologna-based group said it plans to open new shops in China, Australia, Germany and Britain, after launching almost 30 new stores in 2016.
Furla is working for the Milan listing but to date the timing of the operation has not been defined, Director General Alberto Camerlengo told newspaper Milano Finanza on Thursday.
FIGARO DEMAIN - Le Mainichi Shimbun est imprimé sur un papier non seulement recyclable mais qui contient des graines. Le journal diffusé à plus de 5,6 millions d'exemplaires par jour sur deux éditions peut ainsi fleurir quand on le plante.
Quatre ans après son lancement, RoseMarySuzy mise sur l’international pour gagner en croissance. La griffe de sacs à l’esprit bohème chic part à la conquête de l’Asie où elle vient de signer avec des agents au Japon et à Hong Kong. Collection automne-hiver 2017, RoseMarySuzy - DR
"Depuis la création de la marque, nous nous développons doucement mais sûrement. C’est une bonne chose car, petit à petit, nous nous imposons dans les boutiques. Cependant, notre croissance reste lente. Nous pensons que l’international, particulièrement l’Asie, peut être notre levier de croissance. Là-bas, le made in France est bien valorisé", explique Marine Rivas, la créatrice de la marque.
Dès l’été 2017, la marque présentera donc au Japon et à Hong Kong sa collection composée d’une quarantaine de pièces, essentiellement des sacs en cuir et en toile mais aussi des petits accessoires. Avec un prix moyen en France de 250 euros, elle vise le segment premium.
"J’apporte une grande importance à la qualité. Au-delà de la fabrication 100% française, les matières sont également issues de l’Hexagone (cuirs, toiles, chaînes), à l’exception des cuirs façon reptile, ma signature, qui sont italiens, précise Marine Rivas. Cela a un coût mais en Asie, ce jusqu'au-boutisme et ce savoir-français sont de véritables arguments de vente contrairement à l’Europe. Nous avons donc beaucoup d’espoirs."
Déjà présente dans près d’une trentaine de boutiques mode et concept-stores en France mais aussi en Suisse, en Italie et en Belgique, la griffe entend tout de même poursuivre son développement dans l'Hexagone. "L’Asie est notre objectif premier en 2017 mais la France reste notre marché domestique et nous voulons y consolider notre distribution", conclut Marine Rivas.
Japan department store sales hit 36-year low in 2016
Japan's department store sales fell to their lowest in nearly four decades in 2016, data showed on Friday, underscoring the fragile nature of the country's economic recovery.
Pixabay
Sales of clothing were sluggish as Japanese consumers tightened their purse strings on slow wage growth. Spending by overseas tourists, who once flocked to buy luxury items, peaked to the dismay of department stores that have become increasingly reliant on inbound tourism, analysts say.
"It's clear department stores took a hit from a slowdown in spending by Chinese tourists, who still shop but spend less," said Yoshiki Shinke, chief economist at Dai-ichi Life Research Institute.
"I expect consumption to fare somewhat better this year, though Japanese consumers may not boost spending much if the rising cost of imports push up grocery bills."
Department store sales fell 2.9 percent in 2016 from a year earlier to 5.978 trillion yen ($52.1 billion), sliding below 6 trillion yen for the first time since 1980, data by the Japan Department Stores Association showed.
Sales in December fell 1.7 percent from a year earlier, marking the 10th straight month of declines, the data showed.
The data underscores the difficulty policymakers face in eradicating Japan's deflationary mindset and prodding consumers to boost spending.
Japan's economy is recovering moderately as exports and factory output pick up, reflecting improvements in overseas demand.
Private consumption has also shown signs of life after slumping last year, though many analysts expect any rebound to be modest as companies remain wary of raising wages.
Louis Vuitton choisit le Japon comme décor de son défilé croisière 2018
(Relaxnews) - La maison française posera ses valises au pays du soleil levant en mai prochain pour présenter sa collection croisière 2018, indique Vogue.
Après Monaco, Palm Springs et Rio de Janeiro, c'est en Asie que Louis Vuitton s'installera le temps d'un défilé afin de dévoiler sa prochaine collection croisière. Le défilé, mené par Nicolas Ghesquière, directeur artistique de la marque, aura lieu au Japon le 14 mai prochain.
La griffe de luxe possède une longue histoire avec le pays, où elle a ouvert sa première boutique en 1978, collaborant au fil des années avec plusieurs stylistes et artistes japonais comme Takashi Murakami, Yayoi Kusama et Rei Kawakubo.
La ville et le lieu exact du défilé n'ont pas encore été dévoilés. L'année dernière, Louis Vuitton avait jeté son dévolu sur le musée d'art contemporain de Niteroi à Rio de Janeiro pour présenter sa collection croisière 2017.
JEM dévoile ses bijoux dans un pop-up parisien pour le fêtes La marque de bijoux fondée en 2010, avec l'intention de proposer une joaillerie durable, s'offre un magasin éphémère au sein de la Galerie 121, située au 121 rue Vieille-du-Temple, dans le IIIème arrondissement à Paris. JEM, qui signifie Jewellery Ethically Minded, y déploie ses collections au design épuré jusqu'au 31 décembre.
JEM travaille un or certifié par le label Fairmind
Reprise en 2015 par Dorothée Contour-Morel, la maison française, qui table sur l'ouverture d'une première boutique à Paris en 2017, a recours au label Fairmind pour son sourcing, qui lui garantit la provenance d'un « or éthique ».
A l'occasion de ce pop-up store, la marque se propose de reprendre les bijoux anciens en or des clients pour tout achat d'un bijou JEM, au prix de 50 euros le gramme. « La filière de l’or recyclé favorise l’économie des ressources naturelles et permet d’éviter l’extraction minière traditionnelle et les enjeux qu’elle soulève », précise la griffe.
Japan's millennials say being thrifty is a virtue, shop for bargains only Japan's millennials have grown up in an economy that never seems to grow.
Accustomed to stagnant wages, jobs without benefits and a debt-burdened government, they came of age during the global financial crisis and the 2011 tsunami and nuclear disaster - events that set them apart from other generations, especially in their spending patterns.
That carries grave portends for Japan's economic policymakers, hampering their ability to spur consumption and lift the world's third-largest economy from decades of tepid growth and deflation.
Mixing cheap brands, such as Uniqlo, with slightly pricier ones requires more fashion skills and is much cooler for Japanese millennials - Uniqlo
The millennials will form a large part of Japan's consumer society for decades to come, and their first instinct is to save, not spend. And if they spend, they hunt for bargains. They don't need cars and shun brand-name clothing, once coveted by their parents during the booming 1980s.
"I want to lead a minimalist life. I have no desire to buy things," said 19-year-old Kaoruko Shimada. "Even if money falls from the sky, I wouldn't spend it."
Millennials in the United States and other developed countries also show a reluctance to buy and own things, with young Americans sharing anything from cars and couches to boomboxes and dresses. But it's a particularly serious economic problem for Japan: Its population is shrinking, and each household is spending less.
These youngsters "have spent almost their entire lives in the 'lost decades,'" said Yusuke Shimoda, an economist at the Japan Research Institute, referring to the years since around 1990 that have been largely shaped by growth that has been fitful at best and flat or falling prices.
"This psychological impact is larger than in other countries," he said.
Since Prime Minister Shinzo Abe took power four years ago, Japan has had some of the most aggressive stimulus policies in the world.
Abe's government has spent over 20 trillion yen (£139.2 billion) in stimulus measures, and the Bank of Japan has pumped 280 trillion yen into the economy. They have repeatedly urged companies to raise wages and the BOJ has lowered short-term interest rates to below zero.
Despite such unprecedented measures, private consumption – roughly 60 percent of Japan's gross domestic product – remains stubbornly low.
SAVE RATHER THAN SPEND
Young people are reluctant to spend because of stagnant wages and a lack of stable jobs. Nearly 30 percent of contract workers aged 25-34 said last year that they settled on temporary jobs because they couldn't find permanent employment, according to a government survey.
Abe has been campaigning to correct the wage disparity between regular salaried workers and contract workers – who make up almost 40 percent of the labour force – that companies rely on to cut costs, hoping this would help boost spending.
Even for young people with stable jobs, raising pay might not be enough to stimulate consumption.
"If we got paid more, we'd probably save for the future rather than spend," said Miki Sarumaru, a 26-year-old consultant.
Across all ages, Japanese people are spending less, with the biggest drop coming among the youth.
Households with heads who are aged 25 or below spent on average 150,547 yen per month in 2014, about 30 percent less than five years earlier. Family spending has been falling since March this year, dropping 0.4 percent in October, according to separate government data.
Japan is also getting hammered at the other end of the demographic curve, by the elderly who are scrimping to save amid worries that their pensions may not last.
"After I retired, I became very sensitive to prices," said Masao Kawahara, a 64-year-old former advertising agent who sold his Toyota earlier this year and switched to car-sharing to cut spending.
Parking, insurance, and gas used to cost up to 50,000 yen a month, but now he's cut car-related costs to just 10,000 yen.
IT'S NOT COOL
For many young Japanese, thrift has become a virtue.
"Wearing expensive brand-name clothing like Prada head-to-toe is uncool," said Sarumaru, the 26-year-old consultant. Mixing cheap items with slightly pricier ones requires more fashion skills and is much cooler, she said.
Over 60 percent of high school students, university students and 20-somethings said they want to be viewed as being frugal rather than generous with money, according to a survey by Dentsu Innovation Institute, a marketing and consumer research company.
Japanese millennials throw around words like "cospa" — short for "cost performance," or value for money — to rate anything from cosmetics to hotels.
"Cospa is about durability and price," said Tsukasa Mitsuno, a 23-year-old college senior who recently bought his first piece of clothing in a year - a sweater - at Uniqlo, the casual wear brand owned by Fast Retailing Co.
"Even if I have to pay a few thousand yen to buy something at Uniqlo, they last for a few years so it has good cospa," he said.
Trying to get by with spending as little as possible has become the norm for many people, says Tomoki Inoue, an analyst at NLI Research Institute who researches consumer behaviour.
"Minimising spending and still leading a fulfilling life - this kind of mindset has already seeped into Japanese society," said Inoue.
Graphiste Coordination Internationale h/f AGNÈS B. - FashionJobs.com France Le site emploi des professionnels de la mode, du luxe et de la beauté (#1827673)
Cette semaine, les lauréats 2016 des Oscars d'Ille-et-Vilaine étaient à Tokyo pour découvrir le marché économique japonais et pourquoi pas, imaginer des
L'Occitane s'apprête à ouvrir mi-septembre son premier «magasin numérique» à Tokyo, transformant sa boutique de Shinjuku en une fusion de shopping numérique et physique, et proposant des expériences de réalité virtuelle. Une "table de fleurs" interactive mettra en avant le genre d'ingrédients naturels que L'Occitane utilise dans ses produits. Dans un théâtre numérique, les clients seront en mesure de faire une promenade virtuelle dans les champs de lavande pourpre sous le soleil de la Méditerranée et à la fin de leur voyage de shopping ils pourront déguster un délice du sud de la France au bleuet, à la lavande ou à la crème brûlée dans un cône. André Hoffmann, vice-président et directeur général de L'Occitane Asie-Pacifique a indiqué à la Revue asiatique Nikkei "Nous voulons apporter la nature au centre-ville de Shinjuku et nous pensons que cette expérience spectaculaire attirera les gens en magasin.". Ce nouveau magasin fait partie d'une stratégie plus large visant à accroître les ventes e-commerce au Japon, son plus grand marché asiatique. L'Occitane a pour objectif de doubler les ventes en ligne d'ici 2020.
C’est l’une des marques les plus suivies ces dix dernières années au Japon. Défilant traditionnellement à Tokyo, le label de prêt-à-porter féminin fondé par le Japonais Hidenori Kumariki a présenté pour la première fois sa collection à Paris, samedi, à l’Elephant Paname.
Un look Beautiful People dévoilé à Paris samedi - DR
Né en 1974 à Kanagawa, au Japon, le créateur est diplômé en technologie de la mode à la Bunka Fashion College à Tokyo. Après dix années passées chez Comme des Garçons en tant que modéliste, il fonde sa propre maison en 2007.
Une marque au style raffiné, prônant le rapprochement de l’esprit couture au casual, et montrant une élégance sans effort, des silhouettes chic et relaxées. Un esprit que dévoilait son dernier vestiaire printemps-été. Au menu de celui-ci : un style très inspiré des années 1970, des nuances de beige, blanc, noir et navy, de longues robes et jupes associées à des blazers, de longs cardigans, quelques pièces denim vintage.
Sa dernière collection pour l'hiver 2017-18, intitulée Wafuku, que Hidenori Kumariki a dévoilée ce week-end à Paris, était beaucoup plus colorée avec une touche pop même ! Le créateur joue sur les longueurs démesurées, les superpositions et les poids avec de nombreux vêtements double-face.
Il revisite les habits classiques à l'occidentale avec sa vision orientale très japonaise. Les tenues traditionnelles de son pays sont ainsi très présentes, mais détournées à travers des détails. Le travail sur les matières et les coupes démontre un solide savoir-faire pour une collection originale.
Beautiful People, automne-hiver 2017-18 - DR
Distribuée quasi exclusivement au Japon à travers quatre boutiques en propre (deux à Tokyo et deux à Osaka) ainsi que dans près de 80 points de vente et via son shop online, Beautiful People espère avec cette nouvelle vitrine étendre son marché à l’international.
Déjà présente en Chine, en Corée et aux Etats-Unis de façon très confidentielle, la marque pourrait dans les prochains mois accélérer son développement en Europe et aux Etats-Unis.
Uniqlo a annoncé l'ouverture à Tokyo, en mars prochain, de son nouveau magasin concept dédié au style de vie. Avec cette boutique nouvelle génération nommée "Uniqlo Move", l'enseigne japonaise entend développer son offre d'activewear, en surfant sur la tendance athleisure. Uniqlo cherche ainsi à compenser la baisse des ventes sur son marché domestique avec une gamme, une présentation et une expérience client renouvelées.
Uniqlo Move - Uniqlo
Le nouveau magasin sera situé au sein du grand magasin Takashimaya dans le quartier de Shinjuku de Tokyo. Les différentes sections de la boutique de 75 mètres carrés seront organisées selon le thème du mouvement, qu'il s'agisse de la vie de tous les jours ou de l'entraînement sportif, et refléteront l'omniprésence des vêtements de sport dans la vie quotidienne.
Selon un communiqué de l'enseigne, le magasin offrira non seulement une sélection de produits différente des autres magasins de la marque, mais servira aussi de plateforme d'informations permettant d'obtenir des conseils pour "rendre la vie quotidienne du client plus active et confortable".
Des articles de la gamme LifeWear seront proposés aux clients dès le mois de mars, à la suite de la campagne LifeWear. Intitulée "The Science of Lifewear", cette dernière a été lancée l'an dernier et a été décrite par John Jay, le directeur créatif de la maison-mère Fast Retailing, comme l'innovation permanente de la simplicité.
La gamme LifeWear traduit l'idée d'innovation constante que souhaite porter Uniqlo, "en apportant plus de chaleur, plus de légèreté, un meilleur design et un meilleur confort ", selon les propres termes de la campagne. A cette occasion, l'alpiniste Marin Minayama a été nommée l'an dernier ambassadrice de la marque.
Le réalisateur américain puise dans son amour du cinéma la force de raconter le destin cruel et complexe de deux prêtres jésuites en butte à la persécution des chrétiens de l’Archipel.
Japanese cosmetics group Kao reported a 20 percent surge in net income in 2016, lead by a strong performance in Japan and Asia, making up for the terrible yen.
Kao reported a 20 percent surge in net income in 2016.
Still, the cosmetics group was careful this year, citing market concerns due to the rise of anti-globalisation trends.
Last year, net income rose 20.3 percent to 126,6 billion yen (1.05 billion euros), while profits from exports rose 11 percent to 185,6 billion yen.
Kao saw a positive impact from cost reduction measures, but suffered from less than lacklustre market conditions and currency fluctuations.
Net sales slightly dropped 1.1 percent to 1 457,6 billion yens, but excluding the effect of currency translation, net sales would have increased 3.2 percent, Kao specifies in a news release.
Where the company makes two thirds of its profit, sales grew 1.6 percent thanks to its consumer products segment including beauty care, health care and home care, thanks to the launch of new products and the enhancement of sales promotion activities.
Much like competitors including Shiseido and Kosé, Kao continues to profit from a strong rate of Asian tourists in Japan where consumers get tax breaks on “Made In Japan” beauty products.
In Asia where the company markets to the middle class, sales were slightly down, but up 13 percent on a constant exchange rate basis.
In other regions, net sales were also down including 9.6 percent in the Americas and 11 percent in Europe.
In the group's chemical business, sales decreased 5 percent due to a decline in demand in Japan, in particular of construction materials.
For 2017, Kao anticipates a modest sales growth of 9 percent to 1,470 billion yen, a net revenue of 138 billion yen and operational revenue of 200 billion yen, up 7.8 percent.
Beams : le concept store japonais retrace son histoire dans un livre Beams se raconte à travers un livre. Le concept store japonais, créé en 1976 à Tokyo dans la quartier d’Harajuku, publie aux Editions Rizzoli l'ouvrage Beams beyond Tokyo, revenant sur 40 ans de mode et de culture streetwear avec photographies, dessins et textes à l'appui.
L'ouvrage Beams beyond Tokyo est publié aux éditions Rizzoli - DR
Disponible à partir du 14 février prochain au prix de 55 dollars, l’objet, qui bénéficiera d'une distribution mondiale, retrace l’ascension d’un magasin - doublé d’une marque - en évoquant notamment ses différentes collaborations avec Adidas, Nike, Reebok ou Levi’s en autres, et en présentant les jeunes labels que Beams a contribué à faire connaître pendant quatre décennies.
Parmi les contributeurs, on retrouve la réalisatrice et productrice Sofia Coppola, mais aussi la fondatrice de The News, Stella Ishii, le directeur de Mr Porter, Toby Bateman, ainsi que le designer Jonathan Barnbrook et le créateur de mode Nigo.
Le «karoshi», littéralement «mort par excès de travail» fait des ravages au Japon. Un actif sur cinq y est exposé. L'État et les entreprises essaient de changer les mentalités. Yahoo! veut par exemple instaurer la semaine de quatre jours... d'ici à 2020.
Charles & Keith to close all Japanese stores in favour of online expansion
Focussing on the 2017 development of its e-commerce site, fast fashion brand Charles & Keith has announced the closure of all its Japanese locations.
Charles & Keith will close all Japanese stores by the end of 2016 - Charles & Keith
13 stores have already shut down, excluding the label’s flagship store in Harajuku, which will close on the 31st of December. The online site has scheduled a period of downtime for the 26th of December and will be subject to an overhaul in spring 2017.
The label will mark its departure from the Harajuku flagship with a large-scale sale, including footwear priced at 3000 yen and under.
Charles and Keith was established as a women’s shoe store by brothers Keith and Charles Wong in 1996, importing Chinese and Malaysian footwear. Within a year, the brand had launched its own line, leading the way for the in-house design model that the label currently employs. The label launched its inaugural accessories line in 2011 as part of its expansion into Asia, Europe and Africa, featuring bags, belts, sunglasses and bracelets. Beginning with its 2013 Harajuku flagship, the label opened its other 13 Japanese locations in similarly high-traffic business centres in Osaka, Nagoya, and Hakata.
Charles & Keith to close all Japanese stores in favour of online expansion Focussing on the 2017 development of its e-commerce site, fast fashion brand Charles & Keith has announced the closure of all its Japanese locations.
Charles & Keith will close all Japanese stores by the end of 2016 - Charles & Keith
13 stores have already shut down, excluding the label’s flagship store in Harajuku, which will close on the 31st of December. The online site has scheduled a period of downtime for the 26th of December and will be subject to an overhaul in spring 2017.
The label will mark its departure from the Harajuku flagship with a large-scale sale, including footwear priced at 3000 yen and under.
Charles and Keith was established as a women’s shoe store by brothers Keith and Charles Wong in 1996, importing Chinese and Malaysian footwear. Within a year, the brand had launched its own line, leading the way for the in-house design model that the label currently employs. The label launched its inaugural accessories line in 2011 as part of its expansion into Asia, Europe and Africa, featuring bags, belts, sunglasses and bracelets. Beginning with its 2013 Harajuku flagship, the label opened its other 13 Japanese locations in similarly high-traffic business centres in Osaka, Nagoya, and Hakata.
Sepro, le « petit » constructeur yonnais, a conclu un accord avec Yaskawa, n°1 mondial. Sans concurrence, les deux sociétés acceptent de grandir ensemble.
Most elementary schools across the country offer racks of unicycles on their playgrounds, and many students learn informally from one another, sans helmets.
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