Retrospective on the Montepulciano of Le Marche and Abruzzo, which will give an idea of the vine’s potential.[...]
- Conero Dorico Riserva, 2005, Moroder - Pure Montepulciano. It looks menacing from the start, dark, with purple tones. A monument to these lands’ beauty, it’s concentrated, a potential masterpiece, densely fruity, perfectly fused in powerful tannic weaves that persists until a savory finale. Its fierce tannin requires a Sacrifice of Korean-Barbecue Ribs. It will easily get to twenty years. Score: 90. €20.
- Conero Vision of J riserva, 2006, Le Terrazze - The house’s first born, which gets only the best vintages—and it shows. Elegant in its deep, fruity notes of sour cherry and blackberry, its spicy wealth and its savory suggestions that come from the sea, a luminous window opened in a dark tannic score. This wine has great personality and consistency, which make it one of the great standards of the area. Its fine bouquet can be accompanied by Game Pies or, even, Turkish Shish Kebabs with a Garlicky Tahini. Score: 91. €25.
- Kurni, 2008, Oasi degli Angeli - Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony in a bottle. Only six thousand bottles per year make the Kurni a pure temptation, an idea that became substance. This is its greatest quality, to elevate itself above matter and aim for the Absolute. Its appearance is imperturbable like ink, splendid, a whirlpool of red fruit in many forms—fresh, caramelized, in alcohol, in a frappé, in ice cream, in yogurt—but also rose, mulberry, carnation, licorice, iris, aniseed, coffee, cinnamon, tobacco, china root, rhubarb, ginger, myrtle. It’s a surprising fugue of flavors that finds no rest. The magnificence of its taste is amplified by a warm texture, while tannins are under control. Its sweet intensity make it taste almost like a passito, the dream of a sweet-toothed kid. One wonders if such roundness isn’t maybe too much, too frivolous, but this feeling doesn’t last, and becomes fresher, sharper, a statuesque body behind this softness. A wine for meditation, it performs at best with a Castelmagno cheese or Duck with Orange. Score: 95. €80.
- Regina del Bosco, 2007, Fattoria Dezi - A strong-willed wine, which encompasses all the nuances typical of the vine, the ruby color, the clear fruits and massive character. The sweet concentration of wild strawberries and cocoa turn it into an irresistible syrup. The taste flows boldly. Its warmth is persistent, yet never overwhelming. Pair Roasted Pig with Plums or Canadian Onion Soup. Score 92. €28.