Garofoli produces wines from 1871. Annual production amounts to about two million bottles, of which 35% to 40% are sold on the domestic market and the remainder on markets throughout the world.
Wines and People
The Le Marche region has a lot to offer to wine lovers and gourmets from the prestigious and famous Verdicchio, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba and Vernaccia di Serrapetrona, a first DOCG of the Region, to the Pecorino or Passerina, rediscovered wines that recently hit the headlines. Also the Rosso Conero and Rosso Conero Riserva DOCG wines, two great reds native to the vineyards of just seven municipalities in the Le Marche province of Ancona. The Le Marche where all these wines are found have mountains and hills gently sloping down to the coast, a great terroir, essential for the growth of great wines. In 2012, Le Marche produced 920,000 hl (10.2 million cases) of wine. There are 16 DOC and 5 DOCG wines, these spread throughout the Marche region, thus confirming the high level of quality reached by this wonderful regions wine production. Many of these wines are little known outside of Italy but visitors to the region have a pleasant surprise when they try the local wine produced by many small aziendas and cantinas.
Curated by Mariano Pallottini
Garofoli has been making wine in Italy for over 140 years, originally with Antonio Garofoli producing wine to give to pilgrims traveling to visit the church of Loreto in the Marche region. Antonio’s son, Gioacchino Garofoli, founded the commercial winery in 1901, with a focus on Verdicchio. Today the still family run winery celebrates this heritage by creating special wines from the same variety, selecting the best plots of vines on their 128 acre estate for each wine. Garofoli Macrina Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi comes from the hills of Montecarotto and Serra de’Conti, both with clay and sandy soils. The wine created is juicy and fresh with ripe golden apple, white peach and spice with balance and a lively, rich character. $14 at Pogo’s.
This is a very good producer from the Marche, which there are a lot of very average producers here. Unfortunately, this one makes good wines but they use a plastic cork in their entry level wine which is the ultimate sign of cheap wine to me.
The other wines were very good and an excellent example of what is possible in terms of quality here in the Marche. The Rosso Conero is an excellent example of Montepulciano, a grape which can be very pedestrian but when it is great, it can be ethereal like the wines of Valentini.
In the Marche Region of Italy, the Garofoli family has built a thriving wine company dating from the late 1800s. Today’s fifth generation oversees 123.5 acres of vineyards in different communes of the region, as well as two wineries. Their well-known white verdicchio wines are made at their winery in that classic region while reds, including the Fárnio, and other whites and sparkling wines are made at their winery in [...]
Garofoli Macrina 2012, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore, Marche (pronounced “mar-kay”). 100% verdicchio grapes. Very pale gold color; vibrant, savory, saline, crisp and dry; lilac and heather, lemon and lemon balm, notes of grapefruit peel, lemongrass and chalk; deliciously seductive, with silky medium body and supple texture; a few moments in the glass bring in hints of anise, lavender and limestone; surprising detail and dimension for the price. (All stainless steel.) Now through 2015 or ’16. Very Good+. About $14, and a Freaking Great Value.
Garofoli Podium 2011, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore, Marche. 14.5% alc. 100 percent verdicchio grapes. Pale gold color; spiced peaches and yellow plums, hints of honey, jasmine and rosemary, with an echo of that herb’s pithy piney character; warmly spicy yet cool with limestone and flint minerality; moderately dense, satiny texture cut by resonant acidity and a crystalline mineral quality; long finish wreathing spice, limestone and stone-fruit flavors. The difference between this wine and its cousin mention above: estate vineyards, lower yields, 15 months on the lees in stainless steel tanks. Now through 2015 or ’16. Excellent. About $25
Take a deep breath. No, into your wine glass. Can you smell that? It’s spring.
Yes, the first day of spring was yesterday, which had me thinking — I know I’ve heard of wines having a “floral nose.” But how much can wine really smell like flowers?
Turns out, it can quite a bit. Moscato, Gewurztraminer and torrontes are among the most-aromatic white wines, according to Jonna Brandon at The Twisted Vine; shiraz, syrah, lacrima and schioppettino are the top picks when it comes to reds. (And, if you’re so inclined, Fiano di Avellino has a spearmint scent — but doesn’t taste of it.)
Some have just a whiff of floral notes that, among others, the discerning nose might not even register. Others are so strong and clear that anyone would notice them. For the most part, though, the “wines with floral aromatics” — as the owner of the Grandview shop calls them — are minor grapes that many people haven’t heard of. To an attuned nose, the scents can range from earthy geranium to sweet orange blossom and lilies.
If you’re interested in sniffing out this phenomenon for yourself, I would suggest you sample one like I did: the Kerria Lacrima di Morro D’Alba ($17 at The Twisted Vine). Brandon had me sold when she likened the scent to roses and lilies, and she couldn’t have been more right.
This one was so convincingly floral-smelling, I wasn’t sure it would taste like wine. But it did — dry and more spicy than fruity, but still light on the tongue. Plus, I loved that it was a pleasure to inhale with each sip (swirl it and allow it to settle first to get the best read).
How wine comes to have that characteristic is up for debate, Brandon said — some winemakers think it’s influenced by the soil, while others say it has to do with how ripe the grapes are when they’re picked.
We’ll leave that debate to the professionals. In the meantime, care to cheers the start of spring with a glass of wine?
Awarded Wines of Le Marche: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva La Selezione Gioacchino Garofoli 2006 from Garofoli Wines is a wine that has been prized with "5 grappoli" by the AIS Guide "Duemilavini" ed. 2012.
This elegant wine of great structure, fragrance and longevity is made only in exceptional years and from the finest grapes, with very low yield per hectare and late harvesting. It matures for at least 18 months in steel vats, followed by 6 to 12 months in the bottle.
Type of wine: dry white
Zone of origin: the winery's Montecarotto vineyard
On a recent trip to the Marches, I got to get up close to Verdicchio. I got to see violet bunches being nibbled by wasps as they hung in the late November sun, hover over concrete vats as the fermenting Verdicchio bubbled below and of course taste more of them than I can recall. But rather than the glass-swirling, for me the most interesting part is going to meet the family who make the wine, seeing the winery (no, not the bottling lines!) and getting a general feel for the place, not just the wines.
Garofoli produces wines from 1871. Annual production amounts to about two million bottles, of which 35% to 40% are sold on
the domestic market and the remainder on markets throughout the world.
More than 60% of production is of the DOC wines Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (about
900,000 bottles), Rosso Cònero (approximately 200,000 bottles) and Rosso Piceno (about
220,000 bottles). The remaining output consists of IGT Marche wines (about 150,000
bottles), sparkling wines made with both the Charmat and Classic methods (about 90,000
bottles), two semi-sparkling wines (a white and a rosé, amounting to 150,000 bottles),