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Grape variety: 100% Passerina
Refining: 90 days in stainless tanks
Yeld per hectare: 90 hl
Growing area: Property ownership in the villages of Campofilone and Altidona
Production density: 3800/ha
Soil composition: Medium texture and almost sandy
Elevation: 380 m. a.s. I.
Vinification: Grape picking begins in the first ten days of September. lt is made by hands by selecting the best bunches and gathering them in small boxes which immediately transferred into the cellar are destemmed and softly pressed. To be must obtained is kept for 16 hours at a10° C temperature to induce natural clarification. Then it is poured into temperature controlled stainless steel tanks where the fermentation occurs at atemperature which is not exceeding 18° C.
The wine is then put in tanks for a period of 90 days to perform "the spumantizzazione" through the Charmat Mariotti method.
Sensory analysis: Pale straw yellow colour with green apple scent with a fine and persistent perlage.
Olfactory it represents a successful match between fruity and floral sensations. Into the mouth it is pleasant with citrus hints.
Italian food tour… The regional gastronomical tour of Italy continues this week at Acqua where Chef Ivan Beacco conjures culinary hits from Marche. Located in central eastern Italy, Marche boasts more than 100 miles of coastline along the Adriatic Sea yet remains one of the country’s least known providences. Mostly agricultural, very green and mountainous, it was rural and poor until the 1980s when it began capitalizing on its agrarian past with boutique vineyards and small craft workshops that have blossomed into major international brands (think Tod’s). Wines and foods of the area are also little known but surprisingly delish. The most common vines are Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Sangiovese and Verdicchio, for example. Regional dishes run from local fish to homegrown olives. Chef Beacco is presenting a four-course tasting menu – olive ascolane: breaded green olives stuffed with blended ground beef, chicken and pork; Capelli d’angelo ai ceci: angel hair pasta with Italian bacon, chickpeas and shallots; Tonno in panizza: zesty fresh tuna with black olives and tomatoes; and Crema fritta: fried custard cream with pistachio gelato. Paired with local wines, including Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi “Garofoli”, this is a sure winner for $48 a person.
Today I bring you two producers that do more than just make great wine. These two producers have worked tirelessly over the past decades to carefully cultivate their vineyards organically, or, in Miani’s case, biodynamically. As with all great winemakers, their care is evident it the ultimate product. Here are two stunning whites—one built to be enjoyed right now and another built to provide lasting pleasure over the course of the next 8-10 years. I present to you the Pievalta Verdicchio Castello di Jesi Superiore and the Miani Tocai Friulano Buri. Drinking for today: Pievalta Verdicchio Castello di Jesi Superiore 2011 $20.00 This 26-hectare estate is split between two vineyards located about an hour inland by car from the coastal city of Ancona, in Le Marche region. The estate focuses solely on the Verdicchio grape and utilizes it in several styles, from sparkling to sweet to dry wines. This is their “flagship” if you will, and this vibrant, well-structured white has plenty of zip, and it will accompany any of your summertime dishes off the grill. For the Cellar: Miani Tocai Fruilano Buri 2010 $125.00 [...]
Sunday lunch Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Midweek meal Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2012 The Verdicchio grape, native of Italy's Marche region, can sometimes be a little too lightweight, but here is full of rich summer-fruit flavours such as peaches, apples and pears, while remaining refreshing, with a good, dry finish. Drink with cod loin baked under a herb and caper crust. £7.49, Marks & Spencer Bargain basement Château de Triniac Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2011
Walking in the vineyards, these days you are enchanted by the scent of the vine flower. It’s a particular and inebriating aroma that returns every year. It’s shame that you are not able to bottle it! Fortunately, good weather is predicted for the next few weeks and we are looking forward to a good fruit set.
On a recent trip to Italy we again visited the region of Le Marche on the Adriatic Coast and stopped in at the relatively new winery named Le Senate (www.lesenate.it/). The winery, located in the hills overlooking the small town of Altidona and the Adriatic, is owned and operated Giulio Visi and his wife Pamela.
Most of the wineries in this area are hundreds of years old and still operated by the same family. But in 2003 when Le Senate was formed, Giulio and Pamela decided that their wines would not simply follow the traditional wines of the area such as Rosso Piceno. Rather than employing long-established grapes like Montepulciano and Sangiovese, Le Senate would grow French varietal grapes so that winemaker Guilio could create high quality wines unique to the area. Thus in 2003 they planted Cabernet Sauvingnon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. At present, Le Senate is the only winery in Le Marche offering a local rendition of a Bourdeau wine.
Le Senate has released only one wine so far, its 2012 Barbula. However, since they plan to release a Riserva Barbula within twelve months, they allowed us into the winery to taste the first vintages they have bottled as well as barrel taste various wines before they are blended. I enjoy barrel tasting as it gives a preview of the future. All the individual wines we tasted were good but I was particularly impressed by the Merlot. This may be a future stand alone wine.
[...] We have an Italian enoteca-like collection of wines from less touristy regions such as Le Marche and Lazio. For example, we have wines made with grapes such as Passerina and Ribona from a small Azienda called La Murola in Le Marche. These wines are tantalizingly crisp with solid structure and body, without the aggressive fruit and vanilla that characterize many mass produced wines. Plus they are low in alcohol at only 12.5%, which makes them great companions for food.
I often tell my customers that Italian wine, whether mass produced or not, is probably the best overall collection of varietals in the world for pairing with food. In my experience, no other wine-producing country has this large a number of wines, produced in such a wide range of climates and geography. And it has the cuisine to go with the wines! Take Passerina, which I just mentioned — or the equally little-known Ribona or even the more well known Verdicchio — and pair that wine with classic Pasta con Sarde, or with shellfish. These wines are built for such local cuisine. All these wines are from Le Marche. Lying along the coast of the Adriatic, Le Marche has hot days and cool, sea-breeze nights. Add minerals eroded from the nearby foothills of the Apennines, and the whites of this region become complex: they have body, crisp fruit and acidity, plus a mineral or briny finish.
I’m often asked by customers “How do you find these wines? How do you know what to select?”
I tell them I pick what I like, which should always be your number one priority, whether you’re a customer or a buyer. This either makes them relieved or anxious. Then I tell them that you should have a belief in wine.
“Belief?”
Yes. Belief in wine as an agricultural product. It shouldn’t be a political statement about an issue like biodynamics, but rather a geographically-based experience.
My wine of the week is from Le Marche, a beautiful region that is still a little bit under the radar in terms of its gems, meaning its wine & artistic treasures. I first discovered Le Marche on a vacation to Recanati in 1998. I remember driving around with my boyfriend to buy “vino sfuso.” Together we discovered Rosso Conero, a blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese. Rosso Conero was given the DOC designation in 1967. To put DOC on the label, the wine must contain a minimum of 85% Montepulciano. I liked the freshness and the acidity.
The wine was refreshing and had nice acidity as I remembered but it also had depth and a nice structure. It worked perfectly with the Branzino I had as well as with the crudo (raw fish).
The wine I had was from the Tenimenti Spinsanti, a winery near the city of Ancona. I liked the fact that the website also describes what work should be done in the winery during the various phases of the moon.
Every year we visit our favorite winemakers to collect hundreds of liters of wine for guests. In this short film we visit 3 vineyards & winemakers, buying 600 liters of loose wine or vino sfuso and then return to our farm to bottle, cork and label the bottles with guests!
Wine makers from Le Marche; Serenelli, Villa Sant'Amico & Giusti in Monte Conero, Castelli dei Jesi, Morro d'Alba (LE MARCHE, Italy)
[...] Well, in the Marche region just to the north of Abruzzo, the Montepulciano vine also covers lots of square hectares of earth, but because none of its appellations’ names include the word “Montepulciano”, growing regions like Rosso Conero which is typically made from 100% Montepulciano [...] The word “Conero” in this wine’s name refers to the appellation’s proximity to Marche’s coastal city of Ancona.[...] Villa Malacari Rosso Conero 2008
Saturated blackish purple color. Big and expressive nose of wood-smokey black cherry and dried cranberry fruit wonderfully supported by clear notes of melted dark chocolate, black licorice, damp earth, dried herbs, gingerbread, motor oil, and lilac powder. In the mouth the wine is full-bodied with a chewy texture, smooth tannins, and a great balance overall that effortlessly reveals sweet and sour black raspberry and currant fruit and notes of espresso coffee and new leather. Long, rustically elegant finish.
Considering the amazing diversity and complexity of the top red wines of Italy, Italian whites are usually relegated to the second division. But a handful of native grapes stand above the sea of mediocrity. Then there’s Verdicchio, Le Marche’s contribution to the characterful white wines of Italy. Excelling in styles ranging from bone dry to sweet, late harvest, even some sparkling versions. It has a wonderfully subtle floral side, often with a whiff of honey and almond, bright acids and the capacity to age. Angelo Accadia manages a small, high quality operation in the Castelli di Jesi appellation that sits in an east-west valley that gives onto the Adriatic Sea. I recall visiting Accadia in 2006, and was impressed by the quality and the range of expressions of verdicchio on offer. Accadia is first an artist, a painter and sculpture to be precise, who happens to make wine.
The 2011 Azienda Agricola Accadia Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico “Consono” ($15.95) is Accadia’s very good entry level verdicchio cropped at higher levels and harvested slightly earlier than his two other cuvées, and I find it the most authentic and food-friendly of the range. It’s bright, lively, crisp and bone dry, yet with a certain weight and palate richness that gives this better depth than the average. Aromas and flavours mix in the citrus, blanched almond and sweet green herbal spectrum, with a fine dose of wet stones. 2011 Azienda Agricola Accadia Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Cantorí” ($22.95), on the other hand, is Accadia’s top end of the verdicchio range, from the highest elevation and lowest yielding vines (2.5 tons/hectare). There’s a distinctive late harvest-like richness here; the nose is powerful and ripe, full of custard pear, vanilla-poached pear, succulent ripe white peach and plenty of honeyed nuances, while the palate is viscous and dense, with a vague impression of sweetness firmed up by a streak of acids and a certain stony-mineral note. This is a verdicchio of real stature and class; try with luxury shellfish.
The aging of fine wine is not necessarily restricted to reds only either. Fine Burgundy white wines are known to age for decades. I remember a producer in Austria who has in his cellar a Sylvaner 1947 that is still alive. Fine Mosel Rieslings are known to age for decades and we are not even talking about sweet wines that can have even longer longevity- I tasted 1909 Sauternes a few years ago and it was still singing! I know of some Tuscan producers who make white wines lasting for a couple of decades. Recently, I was in Ancona where we had a vertical tasting of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, the signature white grape of Marche. The 2000 vintage was very much alive and getting better (of course, like human romantic relationships, one cannot be sure how long it will keep up).
Last year a scientific study identified the chemical interactions that happen inside your mouth after each bite of food and sip of beverage. The tests demonstrated how certain pairings actually improve the lingering taste of food in your mouth. Some foods were even better with wine than with water. Fish is deceptively tricky to pair with many wines because of how fish oils hang on your taste buds. Beyond just the choice of fish, the sauce and fish preparation affects what tastes best when pairing wine with fish. Fin fish can be characterized into 4 major groups by texture and flavor. As a general rule white wine pairs well with most fish, but certain white wines go better with certain types of fish. - Lean and Flaky Fish - Mild flavored white fish with filets that are usually thin. Sea Bass, Branzino, Black Sea bass, Flounder, Perch, Porgy, Sole, Fluke, Tilapia, Wild Striped Bass, Pollock, Haddock
Wine with Flaky Fish - Look for zesty and refreshing whites to balance the delicate fish flavor. Grüner Veltliner Vermentino (Italy) Pinot Grigio (Italy) White wines from the South of France Champagne Vinho Verde (Portugal) Muscadet (Loire) Greek Whites Portuguese Whites Albariño Cava Sauvignon Blanc (Loire, France) Sauvignon Blanc (Washington) White Bordeaux Verdejo (Rueda, Spain) Chardonnay (Chablis, France)
[...]
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David Williams: The best bottles on the shelves for a British summer – no matter how the weather turns out Star buy
Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, Italy 2011
(£11.99, Marks & Spencer)
One of several bold, impressive new Italian wines at M&S, this pretty, perfumed red hails from the Marche region and uses the rare Lacrima di Morro variety to gorgeous effect, with a vividly floral, lavender-garden character, a cherry bakewell fruitiness, and textured tannin that suits pasta al fresco.
Le Marche is in the central part of Italy, with Tuscany and Umbria to the West. It touches Emiglia Romana in the North and Abruzzi in the South. It is one of Italy’s less charted wine regions but an absolute must-visit for gourmets and wine aficionados. It is off the beaten track and less commercialized. Sandwiched between the Apennines and the Adriatic Sea on the east, it has a long string of pristine beaches and infinite excellent fresh seafood restaurants that serve wines that go deliciously well with cuisine of the region and yet are easy on the palate as well as the wallet. Medieval towns like Loreto, Ancona, and Jesi that we visited, have still not been fully discovered. The region of late has been buzzing and is on the verge of making its presence felt in world of wine, sea-food and tourism in general. Several fishing villages like Portonovo and Porto Potenza Picena are sea-food paradise as we discovered eating with the fishermen of the area. Marche is a small grape growing region of Italy and has come into prominence during recent years only. It may not be big in quantity but quality has found the rightful acceptance in the world market. Italy produced 39.3 million hL in 2012, Marche had less than 2% share with only 750,000 hL. However, in terms of quality wines it had a much bigger share of quality wines - DOP (formerly DOC and DOCG) and IGP (formerly IGT). While the national average was 47% table wines, Marche had only 16% share. Similarly, Italy had 30% of the share as IGP while Marche produced 44% as IGP wines. The difference in DOP wines was more marked with 23% DOP wines in the national average whereas 40% of wines in Marche were in the DOP category. [...]
Wine of the Week: 2012 Verdicchio Classico Superiore – Andrea Felici This is a wonderful organic Verdicchio from the territory of Apiro in the Macerata Province of Le Marche in central Italy, without a shadow of doubt the jewel of the region.
The wine:
Very pale, clean, bright and minerally, good fruit in the mid-palate and a shapely, refreshing clarity of purpose – lovely summer white for those summer lunches with starched linen tablecloths. The wine is a pale straw yellow with golden highlights and a luminescent tint of green. A complex aroma of exotic fruits and cedar, elder broom, lemon flowers, wild fennel and thyme, finishing with a flinty minerality. To taste it is intense and savoury, fresh, warm and persistent. 2012 Verdicchio Classico Superiore – Andrea Felici Read what the critics say
Angelini 2011 Marche Pergola Rosso has been named a Top 100 Value Wine under $15 by Wine & Spirits Magazine. 2011 Marche Pergola Rosso (Best Buy) From a 200-acre farm on a hillside in San Lorenzo di Campo, this is a study in purple: iris and violet, plum and dark spice. Pergola rosso is the local name for vernaccia nero, which is the specialty of this young estate; while the Angelinis have grown grapes for generations, it was only in 1999 that they decided to focus on making wines and began replanting. This wine, aged in large oak vats, is focused on fruit, so lifted it feels ebullient, winning with its delicacy and charm. Angelini Wine, Centerbrook, CT
Delifonseca will host a special Italian Wine Evening on Tuesday, June 11 in association with Umani Ronchi Wine Estate and Enotria World Wines. Starting at 7.30pm, head chef Andy Hutchinson and the team at the Stanley Street eatery will be serving a delicious set menu paired with four wonderful wines, enabling guests to learn all about their creation straight from the wine-maker Giorgio Pasanisi who will be on hand throughout the evening to talk and take questions. - To start, diners will be served Crab Linguini paired with Passerina delle Marche IGT 2012 and Verdicchio Classico Superiore 2012
- main course will be Roasted Rump of Herdwick Lamb with Olive Oil & Black Pepper Mash and Caponata. The accompanying wines will be Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, 2011 and Cumaro, Rosso Conero 2008.
- To finish, there will be a traditional Vanilla Panna Cotta with Limoncello Granita.
Winner of the Gourmand Wine Books prize for 'Best Drinks Writing Book' in the UK
A fascinating journey through ancient wine country that reveals the drinking habits of early Christians, from Abraham to Jesus.
Wine connoisseur Joel Butler teamed up with biblical historian Randall Heskett for a remarkable adventure that travels the biblical wine trail in order to understand what kinds of wines people were drinking 2,000 to 3,500 years ago. Along the way, they discover the origins of wine, unpack the myth of Shiraz, and learn the secrets of how wine infiltrated the biblical world. This fascinating narrative is full of astounding facts that any wine lover can take to their next tasting, including the myths of the Phoenician, Greek, Roman, and Jewish wine gods, the emergence of kosher wine, as well as the use of wine in sacrifices and other rites. It will also take a close a look at contemporary modern wines made with ancient techniques, and guide the reader to experience the wines Noah (the first wine maker!) Abraham, Moses and Jesus drank.
Angelini Wine, Ltd. was founded by Julius and Paul Angelini when they were joined by their longtime friend, Ron Plebiscito. The partners are known for their intimate understanding of the production of premium quality wine. Coupled with hands on knowledge of the shifting US wine market, Angelini has carved a niche for itself among a very small pool of importer/distributors in the US with thriving vineyards in Europe. The trio makes frequent trips to Italy where they have personal relationships with each producer and visit the vineyards and tour the wine cellars. The partners search continuously for authentic, high quality wines from around the world. You can find Angelini Wine Selections in retail locations and restaurants in more than 14 states in the United States.
Azienda Agricola Angelini is nestled approximately 1000 ft above sea level in the small farming village of San Lorenzo in Campo, within the Marche region of Italy. Azienda Agricola is another word for estate which denotes the wine is made only from grapes grown here. The 200 acre Angelini farm has been in the family for over three generations with 8 acres of vineyards of specially selected varietals; Sangiovese, Vernaccia, Pergola Rosso and Merlot.
The vineyard are cared for primarily employing organic intervention methods. The farm is located on the beautiful rolling hills of the Marche region and only 16 miles from sea.
TerroirMarche is a consortium made up of winemakers based in the Marches, which aims to enhance and promote organic viticulture in Le Marche and the defense of the territory, the diffusion of sustainable practices and of inclusive culture.
TerroirMarche is made of a group of winegrowers who symbolically unites the vineyards of the Piceno and Jesi, engaged for years in the production of wines with an absolute link with the territory of origin.
But first of all the TerroirMarche Consortium is a group of men and women who, in addition to a rigorous organic viticulture practice , have in common an ethical approach to agricultural activity, which focuses on man and nature, substantial elements of the concept of terroir. Producers: www.ladistesa.it
www.lamarcadisanmichele.com
www.agrifiorano.it
www.viniaurora.it
www.pievalta.it
2011 Capistrano Verdicchio di Matelica $15 Toasty scents and flavors dominate in this Italian white wine. Toasted nuts and yeasty flavors with a light weight in the mouth and adequate acidity make for an interesting flavor. It is completely different from any of the other wines in this group. Verdicchio is an Italian white grape variety grown in the Marche region of Italy, along the Adriatic Sea (in the area of the “calf” of the Italian boot). Verdicchio di Matelica has DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) designation which requires the wines be at least 85% Verdicchio with Trebbiano and Malvasia making up the balance. I’m guessing this bottle is not representative of Verdicchio di Matelica. It is described as having citrus flavors with high acidity.
Which wine country has the greatest capacity to confuse, irritate, reward, inspire and delight? Got it in one: Italy. It's not surprising for a country of 20 wine regions stretching from the Alps to the Mediterranean. [...] Italy leads the world in the number of commercially produced native-grape varieties: 377 compared to France's 204 and Spain's 84.
[...] Most intriguing of all, the new 2011 Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, £11.99, from the Marche near Ancona, displays a spice and rose-petal perfume with an infusion of scented fruit.
The Wine Tourism Movement, born in 1993, is a nonprofit association that includes approximately 1000 of the most prestigious cellars in Italy
On the last week end of May, the 1000 member wineries of Italy’s Wine Tourism Movement are open to the public with a variety of entertaining initiatives . An invitation to the many wine enthusiasts and tourists to a responsible approach to wine tasting.
In the link below you can get connected with the page of the Wine Tourism Movement with all the useful addresses to organize your visit in Le Marche.
More than 80 different wineries have joined the initiative in the Region.
Visit the official site of Cantine Aperte Marche 2013
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