If ever there was time for white Hermitage, it would be near a roaring fire. (Again, balmy coastal folk, work with me here.) If your winter tradition is of the fondue sort, the mineral-laced white wines of the Alps, and their cousins from elsewhere, are in order. Istria's version of Malvasia has deep local roots, and there are grapes like Vitovska and Ribolla Gialla that have made their home near that northern notch of the Adriatic. What they share is a bridge between that lean mineral cut of the mountains and the richness and exoticism of ripe, fleshy grapes like Roussanne.