We always seem to begin at the wrong end. It’s our settler story, which holds us back. We seem to be trapped in a time warp unable to express where to from here, invariably more comfortable in the past. This is the land that for most of its history has dominated its inhabitants. Its backbone was high, strong and forbidding. Its rivers crashed through canyons and exploded in flood. And at its center, it was still a living thing. Great eruptions and their legacy of lakes, streams and uncertainty are with us even now.