Very often we need to connect some type of mechanical switch to an Arduino as an input device. Also very often, there is mechanical slop in a switch, so the arduino sees one activation of the switch as multiple activations. This is called switch bounce. You can write code that looks at the state of the switch, saves it to a variable and waits for a short period of time and looks again to see if the button is still pressed, or you can debounce in hardware and save code space and complexity.
His hack is relatively simple. He started with the garage door opener remote. He removed the momentary switch that was normally used to active the door. He bridged the electrical connection to create a circuit that was always closed. This meant that as long as the remote had power, the switch would be activated. Now all [Tanner] had to do was remove the battery and hook up the power connectors to his Raspberry Pi. Since the remote works on 3.3V and draws little current, he is able to power the remote directly from the Pi. The Pi just has to turn its pin high momentarily to activate the remote.
In this post I will explain how you can expend the number of IO of your Arduino via Maxim 1wire DS24O8.The DS2408 is an 8-channel, programmable I/O 1-Wire® chip. PIO outputs are configured as open-drain and provide an on resistance of 100Ω max.
In our kitchen, the light that falls on the counter is blocked by the kitchen cabinets. It would be nice to have some light when preparing food, but often when you need light, your hands are dirty. I came up with the idea of running a strip of LEDs under the cabinets and being able to control them by waving your hand under the cabinet to turn them on. You can adjust the brightness by moving your hand down from just under the cabinet to counter level to control brightness based on the distance from the cabinet.
I am using an ultrasonic range sensor to determine the hand distance between the cabinet and the counter. I don't want to run the sensor all the time because, even though we can't hear the 40kHz chirp, I imagine the dogs and bird (our pets) can hear it. Additionally, I imagine there is a limited lifetime on the sensor. So I added a pyroelectric infrared (PIR) sensor that will only activate the ranging when it senses movement around the counter.
Have you ever wanted to wirelessly control power outlets from your phone? You could buy a Belkin WeMo Switch for over $40 for 1 outlet or build your own with 5 outlets for under $35 if you already own a Raspberry Pi. Hopefully this post will guide you in the right direction.
Do you want to find the right sensor for your DIY project based on the Arduino microcontroller? Well, finding the right sensor requires research and to facilitate this process, you’ll find all the info you need in this article.
HAL-9000 (Space Odyssey), Mother (Alien), The Matrix, Jarvis (Iron Man), KITT – who doesn’t know them? And since a few days there’s Jasper, voice control for the Raspberry Pi. An RPi, microphone, speaker and network connection is all you need (and the Jasper software package of course).
I’ve often talked about how to use a atmega in in standalone mode without any Arduino board: with a 16mhz resonator or without any resonator using internal clock In both cases, you need to load the bootloader to the Atmega chip.
The CoPiino is a Arduino compatible Atmel 1284 based "shield" for the Raspberry Pi that allows remote editing and uploading of Arduino sketches using a web browser. Access the CoPiino app running on the Raspberry Pi with a web browser to edit and upload new sketches. Transfer sensor data from the CoPiino to the Raspberry Pi for display by the Apache Web Server, and stored by the MySQL server running on the Pi.
In this blog, I’ve often talked about how to use a atmega in in standalone mode without any Arduino board:with a 16mhz resonatoror without any resonator using internal clockIn both cases, you need to load the bootloader to the Atmega chip.
These last days I spent some time playing with ethernet on my Arduino. The main goal is to make the Arduino accessible directly for the web via the Web. To do so I played with several shields or modules.
Continuing from my previous blog post about Hi-Link HLK-RM04 module, I have finally received the ESP8266 Serial-to-WiFi module that I’ve been waiting for. As I said previously, with the popularity of IoT devices, there is an increasing demand for low-cost and easy-to-use WiFi modules. ESP8266 is a new player in this field: it’s tiny (25mm x 15mm), with simple pin connections (standard 2×4 pin headers), and best of all, it’s extremely cheap, less than US$3 from Taobao.com!
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