Mere Brazier, Eugenie Brazier, Anthony Bourdain, Culinary History, Women Chefs
Jozef Schildermans's insight:
How is it possible that a woman we’ve never heard of could outshine the likes of Paul Bocuse? Using the French measuring stick of Michelin authority it is on record that Eugenie Brazier was the first chef to be awarded three Michelin stars in 1933 and the first chef to hold six stars, three stars for each of her restaurants in Lyon and col de la Luère. That later achievement remained unchallenged until chef Alain Ducasse exceeded it with nine Michelin stars in 2005. Paul Bocuse has never held six Michelin stars, nor has Fernand Point. In this regard, chef Brazier’s achievement lands her in the rare company of chefs like Joel Robuchon and Thomas Keller. In his forward to the book, La Mère Brazier. The Mother of Modern French Cooking, Paul Bocuse writes that Eugenie Brazier “remains one of the pillars of global gastronomy” who “taught all of us about flavors and gave us a taste for hard work and work well done. There would have been no success for any of us without her; something we often forget these days.”
Kampernoelies: zo werden paddenstoelen gemeenzaam genoemd in de 17de eeuw, ook door Frans van Sterbeeck (1630-1693), een Antwerpse pastoor met een uitgesproken botanische belangstelling. Zijn interesse voor paddenstoelen was gewekt door de mycologische geschriften van Carolus Clusius (1526-1609) en aangescherpt door het toenemende gebruik van campenoelien in de keuken. Dat resulteerde in dit encyclopedische overzichtswerk van alle bekende soorten, bijzonder fraai geïllustreerd door Peter. van Sickeleers met 349 burijngravures, zowel naar de natuur als naar aquarellen van Clusius. Van Sterbeeck vertelt breedvoerig over zijn eigen waarnemingen en waarschuwt met concrete verhalen voor giftige paddenstoelen ofte quaede fungi.
Het is heerlijk om te koken met verse ingrediënten. Helaas kun je verse producten niet eeuwig bewaren en overkomt het ons wel eens dat we etenswaren weg moeten gooien. Super zonde! Gelukkig zijn er handige tips zodat je jouw producten wat langer kan bewaren. Hieronder delen we ze met jou! Heb jij nog goede bewaartips? […]
I referred to “La Cucina, The Regional Cooking of Italy” by the Italian Academy of Cuisine to confirm that American G.I.s in Italy during World War II had a habit of taking their daily rations of eggs and bacon to local restaurants where the cooks combined them with Italian food to create an American style meal.
Without a doubt, this is a legend because after doing some extensive historical research in my cookbook room at Jasper’s this past week, I found that carbonara dates back to 1837 where a recipe was noted in the cookbook “La Cucina Teirico Pratica".
February is Black History Month. Around this time last year, I was asked if I might be interested in giving a talk about African-American contributions to culinary history. ... In 1912, S. Thomas Bivens wrote The Southern Cookbook: A Manual of Cooking and List of Menus including Recipes used by Noted Colored Cooks and Prominent Caterers. As we can infer from the activities and successes of previous African-American authors like Abby Fisher (What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking, 1881) , John B. Goins, Tunis Campbell (Hotel Keepers, Head Waiters, and Housekeepers’ Guide, 1848), and Robert Roberts (The House Servant’s Directory, or A Monitor for Private Families: Comprising Hints on the Arrangement and Performance of Servants’ Work, 1827), food had become a business, and an important one for African-Americans.
Emma Blomfield Schreiber was christened at the Anglican Church in Bradwell-near-the-sea on September 19, 1834. ... Emma collected recipes for desserts, made dishes, beverages, remedies, cleaning solutions, and preserves. The careful record of the source for many recipes preserves her network of female friends and relatives. A recipe for plum pudding dated December 1887 suggests Emma (or someone else) used, added to, and revised her recipe book for at least thirty years.
Rachel A. Snell, “Manuscript Cookbooks as Autobiography: A Glimpse at the Life of Emma Blomfield Schreiber,” Khronikos: the University of Maine graduate history student blog (blog), December 4, 2013.
In 1739 Kidder published his own cookbook, called The Receipts of Pastry and Cookery. It was probably conceived as a companion piece to his classes, and either sold or given to his students. By that time Kidder was 73 years old, but according to his book he still “teacheth at his School” six days a week. Unfortunately, Kidder died soon after the book was published, but a glowing obituary claimed that he taught “6,000 ladies” the culinary arts. The classes were not cheap, and Kidder seemingly died a rich man, leaving his wife and children a diamond ring and gold watch in his will, among other expensive keepsakes. Today that book is all that remains of Kidder’s culinary legacy, but cooking schools across the world owe a debt to his long-ago pie making classes. ...
Move over, 15-year cheddar. Researchers believe they may have found a sample of cheese residue dating back some 7,000 years — the earliest known appearance of the preserved dairy product. Archaeologists began uncovering ancient pieces of hole-riddled pottery in Poland in the 1920s and ’30s. The reassembled ceramics immediately brought to mind modern cheese strainers for Princeton anthropologist Peter Bogucki, who published a paper on them in 1984.
I discovered the cookbook of Bartolomeo Scappi this summer at a medieval food lab (yep, I'm a dork), and was so diverted by the wonderful recipes in the book that I quickly added a few of them to my queue. ... Although Scappi provides much more detail about his methods of cooking, as well as proportions for ingredients, these recipes fought back a little. It took a few tries, and even now, I’ll probably take another crack at them to try and perfect the recipes. For those unfamiliar with these dishes, they are traditional Italian desserts. Zeppole are like little fried doughnut holes, and Zabaglione is like a thick alcoholic pudding.
During the seventeenth century a meal was often concluded by drinking spiced wine to stimulate the digestion.Hippocras was such a drink, which was already known during the Middle Ages. But there were other kinds of spiced wine as well. Vin des dieux ('wine of the gods') is such a spiced wine, and even today the recipe can be found on the (French) internet.
Where do recipes fit into historical understanding of pedagogical processes around food? Various scholars (including myself) have speculated about the compilation of manuscript recipe collections as part of a domestically-located education for young girls and teens prior to marriage. Some seventeenth-century English printed recipe collections also speak explicitly of who they are intending to educate in the ‘art and mystery’ of cookery (and, in William Rabisha’s case, who not: those without any culinary aptitude, for one).
Tartare sauce, that piquant gloop found in chippies and fancy fish restaurants alike, was not, you will unsurprised to hear, everyday fare on the windswept steppes of the ancient Tatar people. Instead, it has assumed the name of the more traditional Tatar dish of chopped raw meat, which it often accompanied in the fashionable dining rooms of 19th-century Europe ...
Today we’re going to take a brief look at a flour substitute that was once common, but which few have any knowledge of today. It can be used alone or combined with other types of flour and its claims to fame are that it is naturally slightly sweet, gluten-free, and has a low oil content.
A vintage 1908 recipe for Curry Mushroom Toast, adapted by Tori Avey from Cooking Club Magazine on The History Kitchen. ... find in my old cook books. There are some truly horrendous meals in some of those old books. ... As for the food served in 1908, we can surmise from the Cooking Club Menu Suggestions that folks were indulging in dishes like baked bananas with rice, boiled sauerkraut with dumplings, baked stuffed heart (oh my!), flannel cakes, jellied veal and orange snow.
My mom gave me two of her cast iron pans that she inherited from her mother, which her mother inherited from HER mother. My pans are now over 100 years old and they are as smooth as glass and amazingly seasoned. ... Cast irons are so great because they are so versatile. In one pan, I have a nonstick skillet, pizza stone, dutch oven, griddle, and even a cookie sheet. Plus I can take it camping and leave it tossing around in my trunk for a few weeks and it's still perfect (though anything fragile in the trunk may be dented).
Anne Bayne cookbook, circa 1700 | Szathmary Culinary Manuscripts and Cookbooks.
While “Downton Abbey” fans tune in to season 4 in record numbers and our Special Collections department celebrates with an exhibition of period cookbooks, volunteers at the Libraries’ DIY History crowdsourcing site continue to transcribe historic recipes handwritten by real-life Mrs. Patmores.
My name is Peter Mollman, (the proprietor of this blog) and I was the editor and publisher of this landmark of the culinary world. Here is how it came into being.
Jozef Schildermans's insight:
... The rest was easy. I visited Marcella at her home several more times, took a class (I still have the typed recipe for scallopine di vitello al Marsala), talked with Victor, a Harvard graduate (as was my son, so we had something else in common) and we agreed to move forward.
Within a month or so of our meeting, we had a contract. ...
Traditional recipes for kuchen exhibit a splendid disregard for calories and cholesterol. A single cake might contain eight or ten egg yolks and a pound of butter. A memorable recipe in a wonderful old cookery book of my mother called for sixteen egg yolks—a recipe for a heart attack, but surely a good way to go. This recipe is substantially more heart-healthy.
In the English Civil War, a period I am researching right now, the official ration for a Cavalier was two pounds of bread, one pound of meat and two bottles of beer. Meat was considered essential by both armies in the conflict. ...
Prehistoric human civilizations in northern Europe may have enjoyed their food with a spicy kick, using a garlic-mustard-type seasoning to flavor their dishes, thousands of years before the height of the prolific global spice trade, a new study finds. ... A microscopic analysis of 6,000-year-old cookware unearthed in Europe shows that neolithic chefs seasoned their meals.
I'm working on a big fun research project right now and I've made a little progress that I thought I'd share. This table shows pie recipes and pie-like recipes in the MSs collected in Curye on Inglysch.
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