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In the hands of innovative chefs, Finland's local ingredients come into their own at new Helsinki restaurants, writes Leisa Tyler.
In years gone by, Nordic food was considered as glum as northern Europe's winter sun. Perhaps spurred on by the success of what is being dubbed "new Nordic cuisine" and the trailblazing kitchen of Rene Redzepi and his Copenhagen restaurant Noma, or perhaps influenced by the locavore movement sweeping the restaurant world, the cuisine from the far northern reaches of continental Europe is experiencing a revolution.
Discarding imported products and the borrowed culinary styles of France and Italy - traditionally very influential in Nordic countries - chefs have been turning their focus inward and rediscovering the bounty of their own gastronomic heritage.