Fuji X-Pro1
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Aspects of Digital Photography focusing on the Fuji X-Pro1, X-E1 and X100s - photographer, reviews, samples and more ... | http://www.tomen.de
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The Fuji X pro 1 and Legacy Glass | Nick Lukey

The Fuji X pro 1 and Legacy Glass | Nick Lukey | Fuji X-Pro1 | Scoop.it


When I replaced the X100 with the X pro 1, I began to explore the possibilities of using legacy glass, being able to use pretty much any lens from any system is such a bonus with the Fuji X series. As I didn't own a 60 mm I wanted something with a little more throw, a lightweight telephoto and believe me you have hundreds to choose from. Therein lies the difficulty which one do you choose. My choice was based around image quality, a nice wide aperture, and finally portability. I settled on the Zuiko, as it ticked all the boxes for me, Image quality is great, punchy colour with  good contrast and its sharp. The bonus is that its tiny a little over 2 inches tall. It balances well in the hand, and adds very little weight. The great thing about the old zuiko lenses is that the aperture ring is toward the front of the lens, making aperture adjustments is easy. Since the latest firmware additions, manual focus is achieved quite quickly and feels much more positive, using the evf and a magnify setting of 3x allows pretty accurate focus. Although you need to allow for evf wobble. Nice and sharp with a nicely rendered background bokeh is very pleasant on this lens. Colour is very natural, with no obvious colour casts, contrast is excellent, and cannot find any evidence of colour fringing. I need to get a nice lens hood for it though. Overall the lens is a decent performer, and for around £120 for the lens and adapter, gives great bang for the buck. Al I need do now is to save my pennies, for either the 14mm or the Voigtlander 12mm. All the images apart from the lens on camera shots, were shot in raw and converted using the new capture One software, more on this later.....

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Take control sharpening in Photoshop | Digital-Photography-School

Take control sharpening in Photoshop | Digital-Photography-School | Fuji X-Pro1 | Scoop.it


Most people who have experimented in Photoshop, especially those who shoot in raw, will have some experience of trying to sharpen an image. Sharpening increases the contrast between neighbouring pixels resulting in the visual effect of a crisper image. It is typically the last processing step that should be performed on an image and is often used to enhance already well-focussed images or in desperation to try and rescue elements of a photograph that weren’t captured in-focus when the shutter was pressed. There are numerous ways to sharpen images in Photoshop, so much so that there is a whole sub-menu of filters dedicated to sharpening, each offering a different amount of control and different levels of success. However, one of the most overlooked filters that can help you achieve better results with more control isn’t found in the Sharpen sub-menu, but is in fact found in the, usefully named, Filter -> Other menu: the high pass filter. I’ll take you through a step-by-step guide to using high pass filter and hopefully show you how simple and effective image sharpening can be.....

 

The benefit of using this method to sharpen your images is that the sharpening effect is applied in a non-destructive fashion, on a duplicate layer, with a very simple to understand parameter (in the Radius value) that controls the magnitude of the sharpening, as well as giving you the ability to fine tune the final effect using the Opacity slider.

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