Fuji X-Pro1
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Aspects of Digital Photography focusing on the Fuji X-Pro1, X-E1 and X100s - photographer, reviews, samples and more ... | http://www.tomen.de
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XPro 1 – 28mm F2 Minolta MD W Rokkor-X | IK Photography

XPro 1 – 28mm F2 Minolta MD W Rokkor-X | IK Photography | Fuji X-Pro1 | Scoop.it

 

Excellent lens! Equivalent 42mm ( 35mm format ) i actually like this focal range quite a lot, for me it just seems to work with my style of shooting. This lens is sharp wide open at F2 with a slight touch of softness. Fantastic performance on the X-Pro 1. Very good correction of aberrations without light falloff also wide open. Between f2.8 and 5.6 the optical quality is absolutely fantastic. A complex floating lens elements design. Nice bokeh wide open at F2-5.6. The 28mm F2 Minolta MD has great mechanical construction as with other Minolta lenses of this era. This lens is a gem. Hard to find on the used market, get it if you can. The lens balances well but a tiny bit front heavy on the X-Pro 1 but nothing to be concerned about, would be fantastic with the optional grip which will add some extra weight though not in the territory of DSLR’s with comparable focal length. As can be seen on the photo above, its a bit long compared to other Minolta 28mm lenses, its an absolute joy to use, nice smooth rubberized focus grip. Aperture ring has half stops as well…

More reviews of Minolta MF Lenses:

24mm F2.8 Minolta MC

http://blog.ikphotography.com/?page_id=1437


28mm F2 Minolta MD W Rokkor-X
http://blog.ikphotography.com/?p=1370

 

28mm F2.5 Minolta MC W Rokkor SI – 1st Generation

http://blog.ikphotography.com/?p=1399

 

28mm F2.8 & 3.5 Minolta MD/MC/Auto Rokkor

http://blog.ikphotography.com/?p=1475

 

35mm Minolta MD/MC/Auto Rokkor f/2.8

http://blog.ikphotography.com/?p=1660

 

50mm Minolta MD Rokkor-X f/2

Part1: http://blog.ikphotography.com/?p=1822
Part2: http://blog.ikphotography.com/?p=1860

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A Deeper look at Printing – Part 3 | Corné van Driel

A Deeper look at Printing – Part 3 | Corné van Driel | Fuji X-Pro1 | Scoop.it

After printing a few samples for the previous post, and taking a slightly closer look at them with a loupe, I noted some very interesting artifacts. I’d like to discuss these a little as they might be important for optimising image sharpness and colour detail. Below is an extract from the Profile 1 sample. Looking at the overall image nothing seems to be particularly wrong, but with this slightly larger view, there is a definite grain to the black patch that shouldn’t be there since the black in the original chart was pure black and the printer has black ink. The pattern is very rough and clearly has a variation in colour density. I’d even say I’m seeing some green and magenta artifacts in the grain. It looks like my printer is mixing in additional colours, perhaps to increase the yield from black cartridges, but more likely because the black points weren’t matched between input and output....

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A Deeper look at Printing – Part 1 | Corné van Driel

A Deeper look at Printing – Part 1 | Corné van Driel | Fuji X-Pro1 | Scoop.it


The most basic of these would be converting images destined for the web from wider gamuts to sRGB, or more specifically, THE standard for web colours. In this process, you basically take a file format that supports alternative colour spaces and compress those colours into a smaller sRGB colour space for use with JPEG images. During this compression process, colour information is lost from the original and steps in gradients will become less smooth, this is an example of lossy compression. Now for the most part this isn’t a problem, edit using the widest gamut available and then down sample to a smaller gamut when outputting to a specific device or medium. There is enough information available that gradients, even though less smooth, probably won’t have any perceptible degradation in quality as long as a close-enough in gamut colour can be found for the out of gamut equivalent.

 

Additive vs Subtractive Colour

 

That highlights one issue, difference in the colours (gamut) that can be reproduced. The second issue is the different ways in which colours are formed when using different devices. For digital displays it is typically Red, Green and Blue (RGB) values that mix together to form a colour  The starting point is a black background and colours are added together to get lighter and lighter shades until eventually the values are fully saturated and a solid white is produced. Basically a new portion of visible spectrum is created and projected as needed. For physical output devices like printers, the process is generally reversed. The starting point is a white background and colours are added until eventually a solid black is formed. The full visible spectrum is projected onto the final medium by sunlight or artificial light (we’ll talk about colour bias much much later) and the reflected visible spectrum is altered by the medium to remove (or filter out, like a colour filter) parts of the spectrum and shift the colours that are seen. This process is based on Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and Black (CMYK) to produce the final colours......

 

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A Deeper look at Printing – Part 2 | Corné van Driel

A Deeper look at Printing – Part 2 |  Corné van Driel | Fuji X-Pro1 | Scoop.it


......
The chart is only intended to be used as an example. It contains several useful colour references though. Firstly we have black and white reference points, with Yellow, Magenta and Cyan in between. These form the important colours that require no or little mixing of ink (CMYK ink printer). Then we have Blue, Red and Green values on either side, providing a reference points for mixed colours. The left hand side is more saturated and more luminous than the values on the right. I’ve also included a gradient from black to white, since most printers form grey by mixing colour inks, we should be able to see any colour shift in this area. For the tests I used a calibrated monitor and a single printer and paper type. All images were then scanned in and not altered (except for the conversion from TIFF to JPEG for web use). Printing was done from Photoshop CS5.5 and Perceptual was used for all images. I also selected to not allow any black point compensation except for the marked the single image that is tagged to have black point on.....

 

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