Rome seems designed for summer. Unlike business-oriented Milan, which melts in the heat, the Eternal City comes into its own between mid-June and early September when the piazzas and vicoli (cobbled lanes) of the centre become open-air living rooms once the cool of the evening has descended, while concerts and foodie events pop up all over. August is traditionally the month when Rome empties as locals flee to the beach – but the summer movida continues, making this a good time to visit if you can take the plus-30C daytime temperatures. [...]
There is no such thing as Italy. Doesn’t exist. I don’t care what they say – it’s not a country. Most countries have little differences that seem big to them and small to outsiders, but saying you’re going to Italy is like saying you’re going to America. Which America? Alaska or Honolulu? I rarely plan to go, always assuming Italy will be there waiting for me in later years, but thankfully keep ending up back there through work or the generosity of friends. That has meant staying in little residential apartments in Alghero, voluptuous villas in the Tuscan hills, three-star superstars in Rome, hotels run by concierges in Florence, and everything from a caravan on the Amalfi cliffs to what might be the world’s greatest hotel by Lake Garda. In just over a year last year that meant too many aqueducts and tunnels to Bologna, Lombardy, Liguria, Florence, Venice, to Shakespeare’s Verona and Mantua, The Sopranos Naples and the leftover bits of di Lampedusa’s Sicily, and the more I saw, the less I bought it as a country. [...]
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