Belay Stations
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Climbing anchor - 3 and 2 points

Demonstration of how to build a climbing rope anchor with Metolius rope anchor, first with 3 connection points and then with 2 points. Make sure you check your ...
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AMGA How To Build An Anchor With Two Slings And Three Pieces

AMGA Instructor Angela Hawse explains how to build an anchor with two slings and three pieces. Left your cordalette at the belay? No problem.
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Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations

The rules for placing gear for anchor stations, whether for lead or toprope situations are no different from those that apply to placing gear on lead, but the consequences of failure are usually more severe.
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Good general overview, if nothing new here.

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Anchors 101 | TechTip

ClimbingBum101 Presents ANCHORS 101 - Its the new TechTip! Anchor building can a be complex and difficult skill to master. Here, the Climbing Bum overviews t...
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Basic intro - seems well-presented, though.

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ENSA tests Dead Man anchors - PisteHors.com

ENSA tests Dead Man anchors - PisteHors.com | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
ENSA tests Dead Man anchors
PisteHors.com
Who said dead men tell no tales?
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DMM Techincal Video on Slings at Anchors

This informative video is from the web link below. http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/slings-at-anchors/ In a previous video we compared the impact forces gene...
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The Best Multi-Pitch Knot You've Never Heard Of | Evening Sends

The Best Multi-Pitch Knot You've Never Heard Of | Evening Sends | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
Whether that anchor is two bolts or two cams, you can use this knot to get yourself quickly clipped in and safely off belay. The knot also has the benefits of being dynamic (less force on the anchor) and creating a “master point” ...
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Ice climbing basics video: ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads - Planetmountain

Ice climbing basics video: ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads - Planetmountain | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
Ice climbing basics video: ice screw placement, anchors and V-threads Planetmountain Having said that, this is an interesting video tutorial by Petzl that analyses the key technical elements such as placing an ice screw, setting up a belay and...
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Alpine Rock course links | jennecarter

Alpine Rock course links | jennecarter | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
Best using two biners for equalette master point, but one biner with sliding-x works too. Demo'd chaining pro on an anchor, quick setup and allows you to break down part of anchor in preparation to move.
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Best Climbing Anchor Ever! - Black Diamond Dynex Runner 96"

I review the Black Diamond Dynex Runner, length 96 inches (240 cm) for the purpose of building a climbing anchor. 10 out of 10! I go over how to use this sli...
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Personal Anchor Systems – a CGR buyers' guide | CGR ...

Personal Anchor Systems – a CGR buyers' guide | CGR ... | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
A CGR look at modern belay and anchor systems - are they better than just the rope? Anchoring to the rock – a crucial skill to develop if there ever one. In my 30+ years of climbing and mountaineering I've seen some shocking ...
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Indirect, Redirect and Direct Belays - American Alpine Institute ...

Indirect, Redirect and Direct Belays - American Alpine Institute ... | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
An indirect belay is when one belays directly off of his body. In the old days a climber would finish a line, clip into the anchor and then put his follower on belay directly off his belay loop. This is referred to as an indirect belay ...
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AMGA How To Build A Three Piece Anchor

AMGA Instructor Angela Hawse explains how to equalize three pieces of pro with a single cordalette.
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Not revolutionary, but a great simple intro.

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Building An Anchor With An Untied Cordalette

Building An Anchor With An Untied Cordalette | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
Hans Florine runs us through a couple ways of using an untied cordalette to
build equalized anchors.
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American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog: Extending the Anchor

American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog: Extending the Anchor | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
"Belay off!!!" "Are you at the anchor...?" "I said, BELAY OFF!!!" Sound familiar? Many parties establish an anchor and then have communication problems. Some feel that the best way to deal with this is to employ the use of ...
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Rock Climbing Anchors (Part 1): Creating a Bolted Top Rope Anchor | Smart Rock Climbing

http://www.smartrockclimbing.com/ Learn how to create an equlaized climbing anchor with just three locking carabiners and a sling. We'll show you a quick and...
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Simple & Safe Rigging | Escaping The Belay | The Rigging Lab at Rescue Response Gear

This video demonstrates a way to safely remove yourself from the belay if the lead climber has been injured or stranded somehow, and how to lower the climber...
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American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog: Ice Anchors - Part II

American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog: Ice Anchors - Part II | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
Clip a carabiner to each screw, and clip in your anchor material. A triple-length sling or cordalette works really well with 3-screw anchors. And then tie your figure-8 knot. Make sure to keep the cordalette's knot (the one shown ...
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Macramé Project Rock Climbing Anchor | Jive-Ass Anchors

Macramé Project Rock Climbing Anchor | Jive-Ass Anchors | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
What we seem to have here is a three point anchor created out of the blue cordage, created for a 'westward' direction of pull. All fine and well, I suppose, except that belay device (Trango Cynch? Gri-Gri?
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Safer Abseiling Instruction | UNSW Outdoors Club

Safer Abseiling Instruction | UNSW Outdoors Club | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
Either have a second rope for top belaying, or use the other half of the rope. Extend a power point to the edge, so the belayer can stand or sit there and watch the abseiler, but still belay off the anchor with the device right there.
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Rock Climbing Anchor Trap | Jive-Ass Anchors

Rock Climbing Anchor Trap | Jive-Ass Anchors | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
Notice also that the belayer is belaying off of the anchor with a Petzl Reverso in 'plaquette (or autoblock) mode', but the device is threaded backwards (thanks to commenter leadZERO for pointing that out)!
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Don't know how I haven't noticed this excellent blog until now. Excellent work from some dude named Steve.

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Testing nylon and Dyneema® slings at anchor points

Testing nylon and Dyneema® slings at anchor points | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
Testing different belay-set ups using nylon and Dyneema® slings and looking at the dynamic loading with slack in the system.
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Blog - Quad Anchor | Alpine Existence

First introduced by John Long in Climbing Anchors 2nd Edition, the quad anchor is basically a doubled equalette applied to two protection points, most commonly bolts. This anchor has the benefit of a wide range for the ...
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American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog: Extending the Anchor

American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog: Extending the Anchor | Belay Stations | Scoop.it
"I said, BELAY OFF!!!" Sound familiar? Many parties establish an anchor and then have communication problems. Some feel that the best way to deal with this is to employ the use of radio, whereas others use rope tugging ...
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