Rei Kawakubo wanted guests for Comme des Garçons to see the clothes in detail, so before her show on Saturday afternoon she moved the front rows closer, narrowing the long runway in a metal-craft warehouse. You could have touched the clothes. That might have been the idea, but it was not necessary. Ms. Kawakubo’s extreme tailoring was easy to parse.
Rosettes, tubes and lumps of classic menswear fabric were embedded in outfits of the same material, creating weird volumes and textures but also feminine decoration. Checked outfits were papered with overlapping squares of checks. There were also a few lumpy looks in rose velvet or lace, but the most extreme outfits were in a deeply saturated, multihued print. We’ve seen this kind of technical virtuosity from Ms. Kawakubo before, but it was interesting to see how feminine symbols, like rosettes, were absorbed into masculine tailoring — and how the masculine forms exploded into decoration.