"I still believe in being a selective omnivore, casting a positive vote in favour of ethically produced meat and sustainably caught fish. However, I now understand that in order to eat these foods in good conscience, I have to recognise, control and impose limits on my appetite for them. To that end, over the last 18 months or so, I have undergone a sea change in the way I cook: it began as an exercise, but it became nothing short of a small revolution. It is now the case that most of the meals I eat contain no meat or fish. And I can tell you, with my hand on my heart, that I eat better than ever."